PEOPLE will tell you that Downeast doesn't really begin until you
cross the Hancock/Sullivan bridge. At this point, there definitely is a
change in ambiance. There is a subtle shift to less commercialization.
Tourism no longer rules the roost. This is the beginning of the SCHOODIC
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAY.
Just across the bridge, check out the Galley by the Bridge Restaurant and KDS Auto.
The GALLEY BY THE BRIDGE RESTAURANT is wonderfully
situated. Looking out the back window, you're likely to see a seal,
eagles, and lobstemen as well as the tidal falls. The school teacher
owner is a seasonal lobsterman so the lobster he serves is the frestest
around. "We catchem 'em, cook 'em, and you eat 'em," he says.
Look for a left that will take you on the South Bay Road and by the Taunton River B&B, Lunaform, Philip Frey's studio, Wildfire Run Quilt Gallery, the turnoff to Granite Garden Gallery, Natrive American Folk Artists, Tarot Radings, Center for Cooperative Aquaculture Research, and Barter Family Gallery.
you will find landscaped gardens, trails, and trellises created to
display the many shapes, forms, sizes, and finishes of urns, planters,
bowls, and basins
produced here. Lunaforms are unique. Each piece is handcrafted using
materials and a process that ensures it will withstand any and all
environmental conditions. Uniforms are world's strongest planters, made
that way with steel and polypropylene fibers in a process involving
cureing concrete in a humidity and temperature controlled enviroment
before being sandblasted and finished to perfection. By trial and
error, Phid Lawless and Dan Farrenkoph developed the process, never
planning on starting a business until a garden design magazine featured
them in an article. In this instance, demand created a business, not
the other way around. Today, Lunaforms can be found in the New York
Botanical Garden, Rockefeller Center, the Four Seasons Hotel in Miami,
and the MGM Mirage in Las Vegas.
You have to go a bit off the beaten track and then a bit on an even more unbeaten track to get there, but a visit to Obadiah Buell's GRANITE GARDEN GALLERY
is worth the trouble. Since the summer of 2003, Buell has been
the sole proprietor of this gallery, home to a complete line of
his stone furnishings and select sculptural garden features. While
visiting the gallery you're welcome to wander through the granite quarry, marvel at unique native flora, and enjoy the beauty of Obie's flourishing vegetable and perennial gardens.
You can arrange a tour of the CENTER FOR
COOPERATIVE AQUACULTURE RESEARCH by calling Steve Eddy at
Phil Barter of the BARTER FAMILY ART GALLERY
is a self-taught
folk artist of growing renown.
Back on Route One, look for the Sullivan Gallery, Antiques, Edgewater Cabins, and a scenic overlook.
In you take the left turn on Route 200 towards Franklin, you'll come upon Spring Woods Gallery, Willowbrook Garden, Moosetrack Handweaving, Seaside Landscaping, Hog Bay Pottery, Fiery Mountain Gallery, and Hog Bay Berries.
credited WILLOWBROOK GARDENS
as being among New Engand's 100 Great Gardens.
Back on Route One, look for the Paul hrann Home, Island View Inn, Ray Function Ceramic Fish, scenic overlook, Sullivan Harbor Baptist Church, and Long Cove Seasonal Rentals.
The PAUL URANN HOME is a historic preservation project of th
Sullivan-Sorrento Historical Society. This active group has archived
more than 15,000 items of historic interest.
RAY FUNCHION makes amazingly lifelike ceramic fish
for use as wallhangings.
On the Sorrento Road, look for Bass Cove Farm B&B, Artemis Farm B&B, Frenchmans Bay Tea Company, Blink Bonnie Golf Course, and, in Sorrento, Bellows Woodworks, Sorrento Dental, and West Cove Boat Yard.
There is a lot more to the FRENCHMAN BAY TEA COMPANY
than tea. You can sign up for art classes, use free WIFI to go online,
peruse an interesting selection of vintage items, or retire to the
Reading Room just to read or to do research on Maine history from rare
documents kept here. And, of course, there's tea, a special blend under
this company's private label. Paths through the Lost Cemetery (which
may be the burial place of a Revolutionary War hero) leave from
Writing in "The
Guide to Maine Golf Courses," Park Morrison called BLINK BONNIE GOLF LINKS
"one of Maine’s Hidden Gems!" Established in 1916, this links-style
9-hole walking course has an open layout with bunkers guarding its
velvet bentgrass greens and beautiful views of Flanders Bay from every
tee box. Alternate tee locations give golfers two distinct
nine-hole experiences, the shorter one being the more difficult. Course
length/par: Back: 2,840/36; Front: 2,640/35; Course
rating/slope: 65.0/112. The summer association sponsors Friday
morning scrambles which are open to all members as well as lessons for
children and adults both. Visitors find that the course offers
fun golf at low cost for golfers of all ability levels.
If you're into nature, woods, mountains, and lakes, turn left onto Route 183 and look for Donnell Pond, Maine Public Reserve Lands, and Schoodic and Black mountains.
Four-point- three miles past abandoned railroad
tracks, turn left at a
sign to Donnell Pond and Maine Public Reserves lands.
up Schoodic and Black
mountains and a half-mile walk to a spacious beach and picnic area on
Donnell Pond. The Schoodic Mountain trail takes less than two hours -
it's about 1.5 miles - but is steep. Your reward is the best view of
Mount Desert Island around.
According to Yankee Magazine, CHESTER PIKE'S GALLEY serves the
absolute "best Downeast chow." The
locals are in complete agreement. This is where they come for both
breakfast and lunch. And on Friday nights they're likely to turn out
for Chester's famous fish fry—the freshest haddock with seconds on the
house. This place is famous also for its unsurpassed fish chowder.
MOUNTAIN LOG HOMES, skilled
logsmiths build custom-designed, handcrafted dwellings. Unique
digs like these are available nowhere
else in Maine. C.A.
CONSTRUCTION, INC. is the construction arm of Tucker Mountain
ACADIA POST & BEAM is a small
company whose services extend to all quality projects, including
non-traditional techniques and materials. The folks here don't view
curves, multi-level, or non-traditional design as a problem, but more
on an exercise in creativity and fine craftsmanship.
The Tunk Lake Road to your left leads to Thorne Road and RebaArt.
Back on Route One, look for Flander's Bay Cabins, Flander's Bay Hall, Flander's Bay Antiques, Salt Breeze Farm Kennel, Robert Nall Mac Mechanic, Realty, Beauty by the Bay, Brunton Property Developoment LLC, Mountain View Campground, Tracy's Seafood, The Maine Eclectic Company, Bud Lee Electric, Barbes Construction Co., Anderson Hardware, Young's Store, Winter Harbor Agency, Acadia View B&B, Gouldsboro Self Storage, U.S. Post Office, Rag A' Muffin Shoppe, Rocky Shore Realty, and Windy Hill Landscaping.
ROBERT NALL MAC MECHANIC, who has
had over 20 years of experience with MacIntosh hardware and software,
is a private technician available by appointment. He does pretty much
everything, including tutoring,
trouble-shooting, repairs, wireless/network set-ups and installations. His rates are very
reasonable, and he also works on PCs. Call 207-812-1252.
Looking for a family-operated, small-town, take-out restaurant with a proven track record? Look no further than TRACEY'S SEAFOOD
in Sullivan. Currently operated by a third generation Tracey, it's been
open for 18 years in the same location. You can eat in or take out. The
Traceys process their own seafood to guarantee you'll get the frestest
seafood around. You can get fried shrimp, clams, scallops, and haddock,
live or cooked lobsters, and crabmeat rolls along with basic burgers
and ice cream. Yankee magazine
recently presented Tracey's an Editor's Choice Award for "Best Twofer
Lobster Rolls"—two lobster rolls for the very reasonable price of one.
Try Downeast bubble gum--pieces of dried fish--at YOUNG'S
The WINTER HARBOR AGENCY
has been selling real estate and insurance on the Schoodic Peninsula
since 1898. This venerable company has been in the Tracy family for four
generations, a Maine record.
ACADIA VIEW B&B
is located on a high oceanfront bluff with breathtaking views of
Frenchman’s Bay and the mountains of Mount Desert Island. The Schoodic
portion of Acadia National Park is twenty minutes away. At night you
can see the lights of Bar Harbor. Just a bit off the beaten path,
Acadia View afford casual elegance in comfortable surroundings. Here
you can watch for bald eagles, hear the haunting calls of loons, or, if
you wish, watch Direct TV with HBO and go online with WIFI in each
room. After enjoying our gourmet breakfast, you can relax in our hammock or walk a winding path down to the ocean. Yankee magazine said this affords the Best Acadia Views.
The GOULDSBORO HISTORICAL SOCIETY
operates a museum in a historic church building bought from the
Gouldsboro United Methodist Church for a hundred dollars. It had served
as a place of worship for 125 years before the congregation dwindled
down to near nothing. It was a fate shared by many Maine churches.
Maine is said to be New England's least religious state.
Route 186 makes a big loop through Winter Harbor and around the Schoodic Peninsula. Look for the Sunset House B&B, Maine Kiln Works, Village Library, Gouldsboro Union Church, Bayview Animal Hospital, Gouldsboro Self Storage, Primrose Farm, Bluff House Inn, Stave Duerr Brothers, Blair Art Glass, Grindstone Neck of Maine Smokehouse, S&B Enterprises, and Fisherman's Inn Restaurant.
at the SUNSET HOUSE
B&B find access to both fresh and salt water.
At the MAINE KILN WORKS, Dan and
augment their more typical pottery selections with Maine's largest
assortment of stoneware sinks. Fired at 2,360 degrees, the handformed
sinks emerge from the kiln part glass and part stone. They are
available in several sizes and styles. Each is beautifully distinctive.
On a ridge running parallel with the shore in South Gouldsboro,
there are frequent unobstructed views of the islands in the Bay.
three miles down 186, the BLUFF HOUSE
INN offers an
outstanding 180 degree view from Mount Desert Island to Schoodic
Mountain as well as tastefully decorated rooms at rates to suit every
budget. Guests get breakfast. Call 207/963-7805).
Finally in Winter Harbor, check out LEE ART GLASS
guys here make unique things with terra cotta and bisque molds. We have
seen pieces for sale at the studio for a fifth of the price people are
paying in Northeast Harbor (not that those folks can’t afford to pay a
If you turn right onto Winter Harbor's Main Street, look for Information, Winter Harbor Food Service, U.S. Post Office, Winter Harbor Inn, Prepppy Pup, J.M. Gerrish Provisions, A.R. Whitney & Son, Richard Brown Architects, First Baptist Church, Winter Harbor Historical Society, Schoodic Co-op, Harbor Treasures Gift Shop, Works of Hand Gallery & Winter Harbor Antiques, Bar Harbor Bank and Trust, Winter Harbor Lobster Co-op, Grindstone Neck Road, Grindstone Neck Golf Course, and Schoodic Arts for All.
The J.M. GERRISH CAFE is an ice cream parlor with an old-fashioned soda fountain. Open seasonally with outdoor dining.
The SCHOODIC CO-OP is a meeting place for artisans and
lovers of antiques. This is one of Maine's most interesting shops.
Drop by for a cup of coffee and something from the bakery.
want to see rough seas breaking along a rugged shoreline, check out GRINDSTONE
NECK. This peninsula is home to a fashionable summer colony.
Sometimes off the western shore of Ned Island, you can see Roaring
Bull--the ocean breaking over a submerged ledge midst an otherwise calm
stretch of water. There is a Donald Ross seaside golf course, a real
Back at the corner, a left onto Route 185 will take you past Raven's Nest Restaurant, Bow-Arrow Hill, Schoodic Peninsula Visitors' Center, Chase's Restaurant, Littlefield Galley, the turn to The Barking Dog, Main Stay Cottages, Winter Harbor Marina, Bar Harbor Ferry.
As a new downtown endeavor, RAVENS NEST RESTAURANT
got some mixed reviews in TripAdvisor, but overall most people seemed
quite pleased. A highly positive review proclaimed that "The wood fired
margarita pizza was excellent, as was the burrata caprese (very creamy
and luscious burrata) and beet salad (the latter was the best I have
ever had!). It is operated by Richard and Cary Hanson, former
proprietors of Ellsworth's popular Cleonice Restaurant.
According to Marcus LiBrizzi, author of Ghosts of Acadia,
the shores of Winter Harbor hide "a secret source of supernatural power
inextricably tied to the land." LiBrizzi says that Bow-Arrow Hill in
the center of the village has long been the setting of extreme psychic
encounters. "Strange orbs, accompanied by a whirring sound,
appear in the area all the time, and almost everybody in Winter Harbor
has seen weird lights in the skies."
Whatever you do, don’t miss Winter Harbor’s famous
held the second Saturday of August. It attracts the world’s speediest
lobster boats for its famous races. Other attractions include delicious
food, children’s activities, a parade, live music, and crafts.
Back on Route 186, look for Prospect Harbor Soap Co., Pines Motel & Cottages, The Other Place, Birch Harbor Baptist Church, Wild Wave Jewelry & Crafts, Me and Ben Hotdogs.
founder of the PROSPECT HARBOR SOAP
CO. created her
first batch of
soap. "It could have been used as an
industrial cleaner!," she admits. "But I had a baby with delicate skin,
and I had a mission." Continued research and single-minded testing led
to the genesis of her original nutrient rich, skin friendly bath soap.
Over the years, she refined and improved her recipes, replacing animal
fats with pure hypo-allergenic avocado oil, luxurious jojoba, sweet
almond, cocoa butter and other beneficial emollients. Today she offers
some of the finest soap available anywhere.
The SCHOODIC SECTION of Acadia National Park
is comprised of
2,080 acres and features a 7.2-mile shore drive. At the entrance to the
park, there is Frazier's Point, a picnic-rest area where you can stop
for a barbecue picnic, sit and enjoy the panoramic view, or try
saltwater fishing off the end of a pier stretching into the cove. Not
long ago, researchers from the University of Maine discovered Primnoa
coral at SCHOODIC RIDGE. It came as a great surprise, as coral was thought not to grow this far north.
Features of the area include the Raven's Nest, Schoodic Mountain, Big Moose Island, Schoodic Point, Anvil Trail, and Wonsqueak Harbor.
From the western side of the park bordering the sound,
there is a view
of Mount Desert Island's mountains. A short distance from the shore,
there is a turn-out and a trail leading to the RAVEN'S NEST
where the sea has carved a ragged "W' into the cliffs rising above them.
The waters of the sound are linked to two quiet coves
by a short ride
through the woods to a promontory where at twilight deer may be seen
feeding at the roadside. At the coves, you may find sea-ducks or blue
heron. From here you can hike along a winding road to the top of
SCHOODIC MOUNTAIN, a headland 400 feet above the ocean. From the
summit, you can see magnificent views into the BAY OF FUNDY.
On the east side of BIG MOOSE ISLAND, there is
a cove at which turbulent seas have erected ever higher stacks of beach
rock. When the tide is right, a sand bar stretches to Little Moose
Island, on which there are trails leading to high elevations and fine
SCHOODIC POINT juts further out into open sea than
any other point on the U.S. eastern coast. Here the sea crashes in,
ding geysers of spray 40 feet into the air. The gulls are almost
If you want to stretch your legs, consider the 1.3-mile-long,
accessible from the BLUEBERRY HILL parking area. If you don't
like retracing your steps, head down the westernmost trail, which
eventually comes out on a gravel road. You can follow the road until
you see a trail straight ahead near a ranger's house. That trail takes
you through nice, level, grassy and wooded areas back to your car.
Once out of the park, you
come upon WONSQUEAK HARBOR, where the
rocks have turned red and the waters are so narrow the lobster boats
are moored single file. This harbor got its name from the legend of an
Indian brave who punished his cheating squaw by drowning her. As she
went down the the last time, she managed to emit one squeak.
ME & BEN'S
is a no-nonsense hotdog stand run by three kids. Their menu lists
hotdogs done 14 different ways, including the doot dog (hotdog with
pepperoni, pizza sauce & cheese), the slaw dog (hotdog with
homemade cole slaw), and the kraut dog (hotdog with sauerkraut, spicy
mustand & grilled onions). If there aren't enough, you can create
your own dog, using any combination of nine different 50-cent toppings
and eight free ones. For dessert, you can choose between
Gifford's ice cream or soft serve.
Back on Route 186, look for the turn to Mc's Marketplace, The Pickled Wrinkle, Corner Cuts, U.S. Post Office, Schodic Gym, Seascape Kayaking, Oceanwood Campground, Bunker's Wharf Restaurant, and Wonsqueak Harbor Stitchery.
Looking for a good time? THE PICKLED WRINKLE is
a favorite watering hole for both locals and summer visitors.
You'll want to stay for dinner. Wednesday is steak night,
featuring rib eye garnished with organic greens. Friday it's
all-you-can-eat haddock. There is live entertainment, along with
horseshoes, darts, and pool. This place is open year
BUNKERS WHARF is
back along with a former chef, and it promises to remain a favorite
down east. As one happy patron put it, "an easy mooring in a beautiful
harbor after rounding Schoodic Point, coupled with excellent food and
friendly service...All of the seafood dishes are fresh and well
prepared. We can't wait for the next visit."
Further along on Route 186, you'll come upon Hobby House Stable, Inland Lobster, Elsa's Bed & Breakfast, Fair Trade Lobster Company, Salty Dog Gallery, and Prospect Harbor Trading Company.
Built in a working fishing harbor on the Gouldsboro peninsula, ELSA'S BED AND BREAKFAST
is a freshly renovated inn with the charm of the mid-1800’s
combined with the comfort of the new millennium. Each of Elsa’s six
guest rooms offer private baths and harbor views. Modern
amenities include cable television and Wifi. A hearty
breakfast serving Maine’s Carabassett Coffee is served each morning in
a sunny dining room on the backyard patio or covered front porch.
"Yankee" magazine called Elsa's Maine's best family run inn.
OCEANSIDE MEADOWS INN BED & BREAKFAST, Sonja and Ben
will let you use the unusual (for these parts) sand beach on their
property. It's a good place to find sand dollars and sea cucumbers.
Sometimes you can see seals. Yankee Magazine calls Oceanside
Meadows "New England's best eco-Inn." According to Yankee,
visitors can explore a 200-acre preserve armed with a guide to the
flora and fauna of varied habitats, including sand beach, saltwater
marsh, and meadows. Complementing it are organic gardens and a
renovated barn, where concerts and exhibits are held.
On Route 186, look for Johnson Plumbing, Prospect Harbor Women's Club, Gouldsboro Town Office, Combs Studio, Prospect Harbor United MethodistChurch, Prospect Harbor Town Offices, Dorcas Library, and Sunrise Deli & Cafe, and Dimarco Realty.
The Whoopie Pie is the official Maine Dessert, and nobody makes them better than the gals at TWO SISTERS CAFE & DELI.
Co-owner Melissa Harrington describes herself as "a whoopie pie
fanatic," and she takes enormous pride in her "amazing pies." Of
course, she does many other things almost as well. Everything is made
to order from fresh ingredients. Even the sub rolls are homemade.
A turnoff to the right goes down to Corea, Oceanside Meadows, Maine Coastal Island National Wildlife Refuge, Corea Heath Preserve, Corea Baptist Church, Chapter Two, Old Good Goods Antiques, Post Office, Wharf Gallery & Grilly.
At CHAPTER TWO
visitors can peruse antiquarian & used books and gorgeous
hand-hooked rugs, buy hooking supplies, and inspect fine crafts from
regional artists. Yankee magazine called Chapter Two New England's Best Bookstore/Gallery.
The WHARF GALLERY & GRILL in Corea is a neat combination of lunch and historic photos. For sale are historic
photographs of the area, handmade rope rugs, and books by local
authors. Outside the small take-out restaurant, you can sit and and eat
your grilled-cheese sandwich or lobster roll and enjoy the spectacular
harbor views. Yankee magazine called this "The Best Lobster with a Sence of the Past."
Back on Route 186, look for Watering Hole Pottery, Fisher Woodworking, U.S. Bells, Darthia Farm, West Bay Firewood, A.S. Logging & Chipping, and Mike Hall & Son.
Richard Fisher suspects that his love of bells goes
back to the
windbells that hung outside the house he grew up in. He has taken that
love and turned it into a thriving enterprise. At U.S. BELLS in
Prospect Harbor, you can see many of his creations, cast in bronze and
capable of producing pure and enduring tones. Many of his bells are
unusual, with the clapper linkages hanging beside the bell rather than
concealed inside. Often he groups them in intriguing clusters. Fisher's
bells are lovely sculptures as well as functional noise-makers.
You might want to investigate DARTHIA FARM where Bill and
Thayer market organic produce, lamb skins, and wool. Cindy, a popular author,
is a weaver of shawls from hand-dyed silk. Check out the horse-drawn
hay and sleigh rides. Call 207-963-7771.
At EFFORTLESS SUCCESS HYPNOSIS,
and depression. Initial consultations are free. Call 207/449-1080.
Back on Route One, look for Creative Cuts, West Bay Antiques, West Bay Studio, Linwood's Open Mic, West Bay Center, and Downeast Coal & Stoves.
On Sunday afternoons during the summer, guitarist Lenny Boucher of LINWOOD'S OPEN MIC invites
musicians to play on the free stage on his
front lawn. All sorts of musicians show up to play all sorts of music.
Hot dogs and soda are free.
Stoves from DOWNEAST COAL & STOVES
economical and provide an abundant source of energy. With their stoves
you'll enjoy huge cost savings. They're cleaner burning than soft coal,
more reliable than pellets, and less work than cord wood.
Watch for the turnoff to Bartlett Maine Estate Winery.
On Dyer's Bay Road, look for
Ray's Meat Market, The Paper House, T. Jason Boats, Ever-Green Wreaths,
Sawyer Builders, Clippers Pet Grooming, Eagle Hill Institute, and Christopher's Restaurant.
Livelsberger repaired his first shoe at age 15 in his father's cobbler
shop in Pennsylvania. Half a century later, he's still at it, although
now he's situated a ways down Guzzle Road in Gouldsboro. Known as BEANIES SHOE REPAIR,
the business is run from Livelsberger's garage in a tranquil setting
overlooking West Bay Pond. Besides shoes, Livelsberger works on all
sorts of leather products. You can drops things off at his shop, leave
them at Curtis Shoe Store in Ellsworth, or mail them to him at 262
Guzzle Road, Gouldsboro, ME 04607. To find out how much a particular
service will cost, contact Livelsberger at 479-1455 or e-mail him at
At the BARTLETT MAINE ESTATE WINERY, the
unusual fruit wines from apples, raspberries, pears, and Maine
blueberries. Although fruit wines generally are sweet, these are
semi-sweet and dry. You can take one of their hourly guided tours
Tuesday through Saturday June 1 through late Oct. Samples are available in
the tasting room.
The road to Steuben goes right. There is Kitchen Garden & Restaurant, Mainayr Campground, and Wildflower Bakery down here. Steuben is home to Moore Parish Hall, A&M Chainsaw Sculptures, Eagle Hill Wildlife Research Station,Petit Manan National Wildlife Refuge, Raven Retreat, and Far Point Homespun Wool.
The KITCHEN GARDEN RESTAURANT on the Village Road is committed to serving
fresh organic and local ingredients whenever possible. The menus here
change monthly according to the season and available ingredients
provide a wide variety of cuisines and tastes. 'Yankee" magazine says
this place has the best Downeast Jamaican Jerk. Other selections
include jerk chicken and curried goat. Bring cash or check; no credit cards. BYOB. Call 207/546-4269 a day ahead for reservations.
Down the Rogers Point Road, Arthur Smith holds
court at A & M CHAIN SAW SCULPTURES. With his chainsaw,
Smith has created a unique menagerie of strange and loveable beasts.
The place is a bit out of the way, but worth the detour.
Steuben is home of the 40-acre EAGLE HILL WILDLIFE RESEARCH STATION,
which throughout the summer runs weeklong professional courses and daylong
field trips highlighting the natural history of the Maine coast.
PETIT MANAN NATIONAL
WILDLIFE REFUGE , 3,335 acres, is known
for the many species of birds it attracts--seabirds, shorebirds,
songbirds, waterfowl, including bald eagles, peregrine falcons, and
roseate terns. More than 150 bird species have been spotted here. Petit
Manan is a rugged, windblown place. It has many habitats, including
spruce and mixed hardwood forests, jack pine stands, cedar swamps,
raised heath wetlands, blueberry barrens, and fresh- and saltwater
marshes. There are two interpretive footpaths to the shore.
Look for the left turn to Downeast Subaru Repair.
On your way, you get a nice view of PETIT MANAN LIGHTHOUSE
you pass Raven Retreat, said
to be "a place for women to reconnect with
the self and our natural world.”
Entering WASHINGTON COUNTY (which bills itself as Sunrise
County, first county in U.S. to see the rising sun), much is made in
these parts of being way far east, this is combinerd with being on the
45th parallel, halfway between the Equator and the North Pole).
Look for Kingdom
Hall, TDP Automotive, Parritt's Auto Body, Matthew's Country Store,
West Bay Firewood, Roberto's Auto Shop & Sales, Forest of Doom,
Uncle Skinny's Takeout, and Rowland's Recycling.
Besides general auto repair, Tim
Bybee of TDP AUTOMOTIVE on
If you're intent on getting
there in a hurry, Tim is your guy. Visit Tim on
The sign at UNCLE SKINNY'S TAKE-OUT says "Grillin' Like a Villain." We wonder how many people stop by to ask what this means. We have no idea.
The EAGLE HILL INSTITUTE holds summer natural science seminars for field biologists, naturalists, students, and artists.
Back on Route One, look for DGR Service Auto Repair, Barbenders,
Kennedy Marine, H.H. Marine, Eastern Maine Mill Works, Bushey
Enterprises, Step by Step Child Care, Evergreen Self Storage, K9 Kamp
Dog Boarding, Paw Paw Shop, Jasper Wyman and Sons, Rumery's Marine
Supplies, and Noel Marine Supply & Firearms.
Managing crops on more than 7,000
acres, JASPER WYMAN & SON
is the leading U.S. grower, packer, and marketer of wild
blueberries and berry fruits flash-frozen, canned, and in juices. With
extensive acreage in the U.S., New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, Wyman is
also a premium supplier of Boysenberries, Raspberries, Cranberries, and
is a well-established family business devoted to delivering the
freshest product possible. The Dorrs handle most everything themselves;
they catch the lobsters, pack them, and ship them out all over the
world. There is just no way to get lobster any fresher.
McCLELLAN PARK provides ten acres of
shore with picnic areas, campsites, tidal pools, and trails.
Entering Mibridge, look for Joshy's Place and Milbridge Veterinary Clinic. A right turn takes you to Hand to Hand Apartments, Eclipsz Salon & Beyond, Chipman's Wharf, and McClellan Park.
Back on Route One, you'll
find The Old Moon Company, Milbridge
Historical Museum, Sunrise County Evergreens, Schooner Gallery, Luna
Midwiffery, SOL Yoga & Dance, Dentist, Family Dollar, Bayside Shop
'n' Save, Milbridge Laundromat, New Beginnings, Camden National Bank,
Vasquez Mexican Food, Milbridge Theatre, Rising Tide Wellness,
Milbridge House Restaurant, Back in Motion Chiapatric, Head First
Salon, Bear Necessities Thift Shop, 44 Degrees North, Milbridge
Pharmacy, Milbridge Tobacco & Convenience, Drop Anchor Realty,
Grass Roots Bicycle Services, Bar Harbor Banking & Trust,
Narraguagus Bay Health Care Center, and Red Barn Motel.
In 1850, Captain Thomas
Smith built a fine house on Milbridge's Main
Street. Shortly thereafter, he caught Gold Rush Fever. He was
determined to strike out for California. There was a bit of a hitch—his
wife didn't want to leave her new house. For a man like Captan
Smith, this wasn't a major problem. He simply had the house
dismantled and shipped to California. By the time he got there,
however, the Rush was over. He had missed all the excitement.
Again, no big deal. He had his house dismantled once again and shipped
back to Milbridge where today it houses The Old Moon Company.
THE OLD MOON COMPANY
is a great place to browse through a wonderfully eclectic selection of
this and that. Friendly ownership provides positive vibes, always!
The MILBRIDGE HISTORICAL MUSEUM on Main
St. harkens back to the
town's shipbuilding days. It's open 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday, Saturday and
Sunday during July and August. Admission is free, tho donations are
GALLERY is housed
in a beautifully renovated old house, a terrific place to show fine
work by Maine artists. Offered in addition to art are wreaths and many
other Maine products.
The VAZQUEZ MEXICAN TAKE-OUT features authentic Mexican food, homemade tortillas, bread and food.
You can take the
whole family to the movies at
the MILBRIDGE THEATRE without busting your household budget.
Tickets are just $4.50. What's more, you can get a medium popcorn for
$2.50 and fifteen cent candy bars. Such a deal!
A right turn onto Route 1A brings you to Water's
Edge Realty, Fisherman's Wife Cafe, Milbridge Congregational Church,
Church of Christ, Downeast Coastal Cruises, The Pines, Downeast Power
Sports, The Spruce House, the Harrington town line, Cote Creek Heating, Coastal Hair Design, and Lynch Hill Farms.
The mouth of the salmon-rich NARRAGUAGUS RIVER
Milbridge. Salmon spawn here in early summer, and you can fish without
a license if you stay beyond the brackish water on the inlet side of
Continue straight through Milbridge and you'll come upon Rhodes Building Products, Evergreen Realty, Carquest, Openshaw Electric, Karen's Klip & Kurl, Tot Resort, Cherryfield town line, Misty Morning Stables, Computer Repair, Cloud 9 Electric, Little Log Cabin Day Care, a turn to
The Ark Animal Shelter, Maine Sea Coast Mission, Joan's Coffee House,
Ed Graves Education Center, Realty of Maine, Fickett Property
Managemen, Tip to Toe Nail & Tanning Salon, EBS, Church of the Open
Bible, and Glen Wilbur Family Furniture.
As you approach Cherryfield, you'll see The
Recycle Shop on your right. This is a ministry of the Maine Sea
Coast Mission in Bar Harbor and offers great deals in used
clothing and books. The base price is ten cents an item, with donations
above that gratefully accepted.
The CHERRYFIELD HISTORIC DISTRICT, an area
about l75 acres lying on both sides of the Narraguagus River, contains
excellent examples of most popular 19th century architectural styles,
including Second Empire, Federal, Greek Revival, Italiana,Queen Anne,
and Colonial Revival. Cherryfield's Second Empire-style houses are
unsurpassed. The local historical society publishes a map, available at
most information centers, to assist tourists. Cherryfield bills itself
as the Blueberry Capital of the World.
The left onto Route 182 turnoff is a shortcut to Ellsworth. Look for Cherryfield
Pentacostal Church, Kel's Kutz Hair Salon, Fenton Builders, Inc., Lone
Wolf Electric, Blackwoods Farm, Tunk Mountain Arts &Crafts,
Catherine Hill Winery, and Sticks, Picks, and Strings.
Eric and Susan Meyer of CATHERINE HILL WINERY
use both classic Vinifera and French hybrid grapes along with the
finest Maine wild blueberries to produce delightful premium wines.
Check them out for yourself by visiting their lovely tasting room, open
11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
The only music store in Washingron County, STICKS, PICKS & STRINGS
stocks a vast assortment in its cozy confines. You can find
guitars, picks, drums, keyboards, ukeleles as well as sheet music,
instructional videos, and video games such as Guitar Hero. On one wall
are over 1,000 guitar picks that co-owner Leah Bachman has turned into
earrings. Leah's partner Randy Merritt provides lessons on drums,
keyboard, and guitar. Out back is a stage for SP&S's Summer Jam, a
showcase for area bands.
In Cherryfield, look for River Lily, Downeast Convenience, Hungry
Bear Cafe, 4 Main Street Antiques, River Bank Gallery, Cherryfield
Maine General Store, R&R Automotive, Public Library, First Baptist
Church, Cherryfield Academy, Englishman's B&B, and Wyman's Ricker House.
Lynn Chase of 4 MAIN STREET
is a veteran
dealer who before coming to Cherryfield ran for many years a popular
shop in Southern Maine. He carries a very eclectic stock of American,
English, and Continental furniture and accessories, including lighting,
garden, and architectural items.
The CHERRYFIELD GENERAL STORE
is a gift shop where you might find most anything. The store
is about local and affordable arts and
crafts, with a sprinkling of homegrown farm products. Most always
you'll find Souvenirs, Art, Jewelry, Silver, Edibles,
Paintings, Prints, Photography, Sculpture, Ceramics, Stained
Glass, Rugs, Greeting/Post Cards, Purses, Jams
Jellies, Maple Syrup, Quilts, and Wood Carvings. The second floor is
open as an Art Gallery. Call 207/546-8006.
Located in the historic Archibald-Adams House
(circa 1793) on Main Street in Cherryfield, the ENGLISHMAN'S B&B is
situated on the banks of the beautiful Narraguagus River. Originally
built in 1793, this Federal-style home was renovated and restored
to museum quality in the 1990s. It is listed on the National Register
of Historic Places. At the front of the house, there is a formal
perennial flower garden. Beyond the lawn and semi-circular driveway is
a screened-in gazebo and a kitchen garden, with raised beds and other
plantings, including grapes, raspberries and other fruit trees. Below
the house, there is a wilderness area where bald eagles often perch.
Your hosts, Peter and Kathy Winham, met in York, England, on an
archaeological excavation. They are avid birdwatchers. Besides the
B&B, they run Teas
of Cherryfield, which includes their own brand of Estate
quality teas. Guests receive a 10 percent discount on all their tea
RICKER HOUSE, circa 1802, picked by Inn
magazine as one
America's top 50 inns, is this historic town's fifth oldest house. Both
of these accommodations offer reasonable rates.
The CHERRYFIELD TOWN BANK, which traces its roots back to 1869,
offers Tuesday evening concerts at the new Gazebo Bandstand in the town
park. This 35-piece band was featured in the Boston Sunday Globe. While
you're in town, check out the historic Blacksmith Shop.
Route 193 out of Cherryfield leads to Route 9 through Deblois which is
dominated by the WYMAN COMPANY. This road will take you by the Wyman
Company's vast blueberry barrens. Those flecks of blue you find in
certain pancake mixes are wild blueberries, and ninety percent of the
nation's wild blueberries come from Washington County. In town, there
are two blueberry processing plants which provide tours.
North from Harrington
is road into the blueberry barrens and
two put-ins for canoe/kayak trips on the PLEASANT RIVER--three-hour
the Great Heath,
the largest peat bog in New England. Continuing on the Ridge Road,
the Columbia Town Hall, with its outstanding views of
the surrounding river valley and barrens.
Businesses in the Harrington area include J.D.'s Downeast Museum, Tolar
Tool Shed, Dalton Builder, Indoor Flea Market, First Baptist Church,
Downeast Family Karote, Tina's Nails, Iglesia Church, Auntie G's, Carl
Bigelow Memorial Park, Antiques, Library, Post Office, Harrington
House, Scoia's Dining, Wochester Wreath Co., and Tri Town Marine.
serves outstanding pizza made from beer batter dough & three-cheese
blend. Fresh baked rolls. Homemade baked goods. Buy ten large pizzas,
get the next one FREE!
Harrington, you might want to take one of the WORCESTER WREATH
COMPANY'S tours. They take about 30 minutes and will acquaint
with all aspects of the wreath business. These people do a big
mail-order business; they sell some $100,000 worth of wreaths annually
and are said to be the world's largest marketeers of decorated wreaths.
Call 207-483-6502 for scheduling.
At the Junction of 1A, you can go left to Machias or right to Milbridge. Go left and you'll come upon McLaughlin's Auto Supply, McLaughlin's Garage, Irving Circle K, Fitness Central, Harrington Family Health Center, and American Pie.
At AMERICAN PIE on Route One in Harrington, the girls use
hand-tossed, homemade dough baked to order in a brick oven. Best pizza
and subs around. Open year around.
Nearby is Marshville Road which leads to Ocean Spray Cottages, Blue Heron Art Gallery, and Sunset Point Campground.
Further on Route One, look for New Dawn Assembly, Navigator restaurant, J.S. Carpentry, Elmer's Storage, Columbia Self-Storage, and Delia's.
THE NAVIGATOR serves
what it calls "The Overboard Platter for Two," a $31 indulgence
that includes haddock, scallops, shrimp, and clams. In the unlikely
event you're still hungry after eating this, you can top it off with a
piece of this places's famous Seafood Cake.
PLEASANT BAY B&B is a llama keep.
Back on Route One, look for Faith United Methodist Church, Route 187 turnoff, Bar Harbor Bank and Trust, Machias Savings Bank, Citgo Gas, 4 Corners Veterinary Clinic, Bargain Hut Gift Shop, and Pleasant River Drive-in.
A right at the Columbia Super Market takes you to Addison, home of Pleasant River Boat Tours and Pleasant View Gallery.
At the PLEASANT VIEW GALLERY you can
see Donna Garofalo's paintings of coastal Maine and Bob Garofalo's
period lighting Donna, who is presently working in oils, says
she is inspired by God's incredibly beautiful and amazingly designed
creation." Bob says he seeks to fulfill "a need for quality, authentic,
reproduction lighting with attention to antique finishes, aging
techniques and early American detailing. The gallery is open by chance
or appointment. Call 207/483-4381.
Across Route One, look for a barber shop, Cathy's
Treasures & Craft Shop, Elmer's Garden Center, Elmer's Discount,
Family Hair Care, Mamma T's Movies & Games, Carmen Look CPA, 4
Corners Shop 'n' Save, Four Corners Vet Clinic, Bargain & Gift Shop, and United Methodist Church.
This area can seem like ELMERLAND. With a few
miles of one
another are Elmer's Construction Co., Elmer's Self Storage,
Elmer's Garden Center, Elmer's Discount,
and Elmer's Country Store. One has to wonder, is
Elmer a real guy, local legend, a Downeast entrepreneur run a bit amuck?
Maine has plenty of Variety Stores, but only a few Incredible Variety
Stores. Leading the parade here is ELMER'S DISCOUNT, a place of such
great variety it makes one a bit dizzy. Shop here for hardware,
housewares, crafts, plumbing, sporting goods, gifts, marine supplies,
paint, books, automotive, lawn & Garden, toys, and more. There
isn't a whole lot you can't find at Elmer's Discount.
The road to Tibbettstown will take you to Lynn's Greenhouse.
From Route One, a road to the right leads to Columbia Falls where you'll find the Ruggles House and Columbia Falls Pottery.
circa 1820, is remarkable for its
interior and exterior handcarvings. These were completed over a
three-year period by an English carver armed only with a penknife. The
most noted architects are said to have found the famed flying staircase
astounding. The place is said to be haunted. According to one long-time
employee, often at night the voices of children can be heard. Filled
with period furniture, the Adams-style home is open to the public June
1 to Oct. 15; admission is free, though donations are requested.
COLUMBIA FALLS POTTERY features lupine and wildflower pottery and tiles by April Adams as well as the sculpture of Dana McEacharn.
South of Columbia Falls, just a tad off the beaten path, in Addison you'll find Comfrey Corner Farm and Pleasant Bay B&B.
At Comfrey Corner Farm, Chris Guy offers a nice assortment of herbs, pot pourri, crafts, and spices. The famous Addison Marshes are among the best bird-watching areas on Earth. There is a llama keep at Pleasant Bay, part of a nice bed and breakfast.
Sitting atop a hill on the Centerville Road
near the old Pineo
Mill is a big, yellow house with a huge barn and a shed attached. Be
wary if you go there. In 1801, a grisly murder occured here, and the
spirit of the victim has been seen by dozens of people. The victim was
an itinerate peddler and the farmer who murdered him dismembered
his body and stuffed it into an old whiskey barrel which he buried in
the shed. Nice try, but the dead guy wouldn't stay put. Oldtimers say
is you stop in front of the house and dare the spirit to appear, he
will pass by the window.
Immediately past Columbia Falls village, you can turn north on
Centerville Road, which leads to Milton Mountain. A short hike to the
top provides wonderful views of the barrens, bog, and coastal lands to
the ocean. Near the end of the Centerville Road, a logging road leads
to beautiful Holmes Falls on the Machias River fo r
canoeing/kayaking and swimming.
Back on Route One, look for the Pleasant River Drive-in, Poirier Construction Co., and Elmer's Country Store.
The turnoff to Jonesport, Route 187, takes you to Addison, Jonesport, and Beals Island. You'll see Elmer Beal's Boatshoop, Lee's Auto Repair, Maine Mahogany Shellfish, Just Gram's Takeout, and OCeanside Seafood, Fisherman's Farm Greenhouse. (The road insists it's North 187, which can be quite confusing, since it meanders in a generally southernly direction.)
Talk about fresh!
The guys at MAINE MAHOGANY SHELLFISH
deal directly with local fishermen. This explains their motto, "From
the C 2 U." You can't ask for fresher scallops, shrimp, halibut,
claims, or crabmeat. You can get lobsters live or cooked to your
A turn onto the Basin Road will lead you to the Basin School Quilt Shop.
On Main Street in Jonesport you'll see Chruch of Jesus Christ, the Lamb of God, the turn to
Beal's Island, Camden National Bank, Lighthouse Cafe, Community of
Christ Church, IGA, Public Library, Moosebec Marine, Church's True
Value Hardware, This and That Antiques, Oceanside Seafood, Bangor
Savings Bank, Losse Real Estate, Downeast Quilting and Interiors,
Jonesport Pizza Shoppe, Moose-a-Bec Headstart & Child Care, T.A.
King & Son Hardware, and Moosebec Video & Variety.
According to a review in TripAdvisor, OCEANSIDE SEAFOOD
has "the BEST lobster rolls ...served with an ample helping of French
fries and coleslaw." The reviewer went on to point out: "This is saying
a lot in a state that specializes in lobster rolls!" When I was there I
noticed that hotdogs were just $2, and the rest of the prices were
equally reasonable. Also when I was there a little girl who had dropped
her ice cream got a free replacement. Nice people here!
A right turn takes you to Moosebec Antiques.
A left takes you to Puffin Gift Shop & Nelson Decoys.
Back on Main Street, look for Pam's
Originals, Jonesport Realty, Moosebec Video & Variety, Jonesport
Shipyard, Pierce Gallery, Maine Coast Sardine History Museum, Jolene's
Originals, Maine Central Model Railroad, Downeast Quilting &
Interiors, Crossroad Farm, Seaside Chapel, Holmes Accounting, Erik's
Custom Painting, Quality Motors, Green Thumb Greenhouses, Frazier's
Seafood, and Silhouete Sewing.
Want to take a
really enjoyable cruise? ISLAND
a great one out of Jonesport. Capt. Laura Fish takes up to six
passengers for three-hour trips on the 23-foot Aaron Thomas. They go
poking about the islands of Moosabec Reach, including Great Wass, which
is especially nice because most of its wild beauty is protected by
Nature Conservancy. Laura is amiable and will arrange customized
cruises to places of particular interest. Call 207-497-3064 for
On CROSS ISLAND, there are seven old graves,
and many visitors
have been frightened off by the sound of clanking chains. Legend has it
there is a treasure chest hidden in a cave accessible only at low tide.
There is a bridge across MOOSEBEC REACH to Beals
Island. Here you can visit the Regional Fish
Hatchery, which is housed in a former clam-shucking house on the
wharf. An education center/museum is housed in the upper level of the
former power house. Visitors can view videos, historical photographs,
aquariums, and other displays related to salmon and the rivers
Downeast. Interpretive tours are provided. Admission is charged.
SEAL ISLAND, 10 miles from the mainland, is
the best place in the world to get an up-close look at puffins.
Probably the best way to get there is on Capt. Barna B. Norton's
vessel, which departs from Jonesport at 7 a.m. each morning. The Norton
family has been providing cruises since 1940. The cost for the guided
tour is $100 a head. Call 207-497-5933.
On Loon Point Road, check out NELSON DECOYS. Nelson's birds
have won 37 first place ribbons in various competitions as well as a
Best of Show award in 1995.
A bridge links Jonesport with BEALS AND GREAT WASS ISLANDS.
Here the Nature Conservancy makes three miles of trails available to
hikers and picnickers in its 1,540-acre preserve. Near here, you can
visit the historic home of Tall Barney Beal. At the bridge to
Beals Island, visit the Atlantic
Hatchery to view the seeding and
development of clams.
MAINE COAST SARDINE HISTORY MUSEUM
fascinating place to anybody the least bit interested in Maine history.
Museum director Ronnie Peabody has been associated with the sardine
industry his entire life. He says that at its peak, in 1952, there were
at least 50 canneries in Maine processing and packing herring. For
Peabody, the museum represents a lifelong dream come true, a dream he
has fulfilled all on his own. Yankee Magazine calls this New
Engand's "Best Place to Get Canned."
Jolene Harmon admits she
little surprised to discover she had the talent to be a fabric
designer. For years she had done professional sewing, but always on
materials supplied by others. In her spare time, however, she had taken
up painting, and when a blueberry print fabric she favored was
discontinued, a friend encouraged her to create her own. Busting into
the business took considerable courage; she had to front over $10,000
for 3,000 yards of her initial creation. But she took the plunge and
came up with a winner. Today her designs are in shops all over Maine as
well as New Hampshire, Connecticut, and Canada. She operates her
out of her home on Route 187 in Jonesport. She is a skilled artist and
offers paintings and notecards (which she prints herself) along with
some collectibles in this shop.
The MAINE CENTRAL MODEL
900 square feet
includes some 3,000 feet of track, 417 freight cars, 20 diesel engines,
realistic six-foot-high mountains, at least 4,000 trees, 200 track
switches, and over 400 tiny animals and people climbing the trails,
fishing, boating, working, or just standing around watching the trains
go by. The current design, the fifth in a series, was begun in 1993 and
is still evolving. The work of Helen and Buz Beal, many of the
handcrafted buildings are modeled after actual ones from Jonesport to
Bangor. Far and away the best model railroad setup we've ever seen. Yankee
Magazine calls it "New England's Best Home Hobby." Admission is free although donations are
At DOWNEAST QUILTING & INTERIORS
you can find upolstery repair, longarm quilting, alterations, custom
quilts, bridal accessories, window treatments, and custom sewing. This
versatile lady is open year round.
FARM, Arnold and Bonnie Pearlman sell a wide variety
of organic produce at eminently fair prices. Back in the sixties, the
Pearlmans were among those determined to return to the land. They did
so; unlike many of their contemporaries, however, they stuck it out.
They live simply and waste nothing. Whatever electricity they use, they
produce themselves with wind turbines and photovoltaics.
Back on Route One is Wild
Blueberryland, Toppin's Marine Services, Saco Falls Realty, Worcester
Wreath Co., Blueberry Hill Farm, Barren View Golf Course, Smoky Toast
Cafe, Aunt Millie's General Store & Cafe, Chandler River Lodge, and Blueberry Patch Motel.
Our online dictionary defines barren
land as "unproductive, infertile,
unfruitful, sterile, arid, desert." This has always made us
believe that BARREN VIEW GOLF COURSE
might benefit from a different name. This unusually scenic course takes
its name from the nearby blueberry barrens, but how are tourists
suposed to know this? Okay, Shakespeare
"a rose by any name would smell as sweet," but he was a playwriter,
not an adman. kl put it near the top of its list of worst golf course names. Whatever it's
called, Barren View is one of Maine’s true link courses, offering
excellent facilities and a championship standard course suitable for
players of all abilities. In addition to the 9-hole, par 35
course, there is a driving range, putting green, and practice sand
The CHANDLER RIVER LODGE
was built in 1797 by a man with the unlikely name Hate Evil, a person
said to embody the darkest traits of humanity. He haunts it
still. According to Marcus LiBrizzi, author of Ghosts of Acadia,
the phantom of Hate Evil favors the library, where he manifests as the
same cloud of darkness that surrounded the man during his
lifetime. Other ghosts have been reported at the inn. In 1961,
former owner George Marston died of a heart attack on the cellar
stairs, and since then many people have felt his presence on these
stairs. Sabrina Watts, who married Hate Evil's son, spent eighty years
of her life at the inn, and even more years of her death as she
frequently asserts sovereignty over the kitchen.
LOOKS POINT is where the legendary Phantom
the Narrows warns citizens of impending wars. It is the apparition
of Nell Kilton, who as a young woman fell in love with a Native
American man. Her father would have none of this. He killed the man and
banished daughter Nell, who went to live with the Passamaquoddy people
of that area. She never married, but instead became a seer, predicting
the French and Indian and Revolutionary wars. Nell was a vocal
proponent of American independance, and was ultimately executed by the
British. Her spirit is said to have returned to foretell the War of
1812, the Mexican War, the Civil War, and World Wars I and II.
ROQUE BLUFFS STATE PARK
has no camping, but provides
swimming in both salt and fresh water. The shore affords pleasing views
of several wooded islands, one of which is Roque Island. At several
spots there are well-equipped picnic sites, one of which has a
playground. There are no hiking trails. An interesting near-by golf
course is a well-kept secret. Roque Bluffs has one of the area's few
sand beaches, which is said to be haunted. A ghost here leaves
In Machias, you can take a right onto Route 92 towards Machiasport, Maicmac Farm, Foster's Rubicon, Starboard Peninsula, Fort O'Brien, Gates House, Buck's Harbor, Jasper Beach, and Libby Islands.
In his guide to Maine, Charles Calhoun placed MICMAC FARM among
the state's dozen best restaurants. He called MicMac "the Platonic
ideal of a Maine country inn; an 18th-century house in the woods, a
warm fire, glistening antiques, amiable hosts, a short but perfect
the early days, MACHIAS,
which in Indian uehikymeans "Little Bad River," was a
popular hideout for pirates. The notorious Bellamy tried to
establish a retirement village for ageing pirates here. Things fell
apart after Bellamy was captured and hanged in Massachusetts, but near
where the bridge crosses the Machias River, the breastworks and moats
may still be seen.
Between Machias and Machiasport on Rte
marker sets beside a small stream. Known as FOSTER'S RUBICON MARKER,
it depicts the spot where the rebellious Col. Benjamin Foster
challenged an indecisive band of men to follow him across the stream if
they dared engage the British in battle. The patriots followed the
dashing Colonel's lead and ultimately ended up capturing the British
man-o-war Margaretta in the aforementioned first naval
engagement of the Revolution. (Foster was an inspiring instigator, but
a bungling seaman. The sloop he commanded on this foray quickly ran
aground and missed out on the action. Jeremiah O'Brien led the men who
took the Margaretta.
The STARBOARD PENINSULA holds Fort
O'Brien (1775) (often called Fort Machias), a fine picnic
spot. Admission is
free. In town is the Machiasport Historical Society's Gates House
(an 1807 Federal-style building with period furnishings and marine
artifacts. Open weekdays 12:30 to 4:30 p.m. June 1 to mid-sept.
At Bucks Harbor is JASPER BEACH,
with unusual water-worn rocks
and pebbles. According to Kim Bennett of Bennett's Gems and Minerals
in Belfast, these actually aren't jasper, but rhyolite, a volcanic rock
that closely resembles jasper. Legend has it hat Jasper Beach has seen
more than its fair share of suicides and that the wailing cry of a
young lady suicide victim can often be heard above the wind. Another
legend has it that the ghost of a murdered man makes it impossible to
safely spend the night on Jasper Beach.
Off the Starboard Peninsula are the LIBBY ISLANDS where a
wicked man named Petegrew is said to have tolled vessels onto the rocks
with a signal light. Allegedly he would kill the crew and salvage the
cargo. He and his sons built a road to Little Libby Island, and locals
suppose he buried treasure hereabouts.
Back on Route One, look for Sue's
Thrift Shop, Cranberry Motel, Coastal Auto Repair, Bluebird Motel,
Downeast Baptist Church, WHCA, Viking Lumber, Machias Valley Airport,
Hannaford Super Market, Radio Shack, Rite Aid, McDonald's, Family
Dollar, Bank of Maine, Blueberry Bucket, Riverside Take-out, Palin's
Flowers, Smitty's Firearms, and Univesity of Maine at Machias.
19th Century shipbuilders didn't just build great ships; they sailed
them all over the planet,
bringing back wares from the exotic ports
they visited. Often they brought along wives and children on votages
that could take months. Wherever they went they acquired strange new
they concocted into tasty new dishes. Boston Baked Beans, for example,
is a blend of New England beans and Jamacian molasses. At OBADIAH'S BOHEMIAN CAFE & TRADING POST,
Susan has researched many of these forgotten recipes and serves them to
a grateful clientele. A visit to Obadiah's, Downeast Maine's funkiest shop, promises exposure to offbeat
books, unforgettable memorabilia, and a culinary adventure into a fabled past.
As you head towards downtown Machias just across the bridge, a left leads you to Axiom Technologies, Machias Bay Antiques and Fine Art, The French Cellar, and Columbia Falls Pottery.
POTTERY features lupine and
and tiles by April Adams as well as the sculpture of Dana McEacharn.
is open June through October. Off season - call for hours. Online and
orders are filled all year. Expert shipping, packing for travel, and
are available. Custom orders & commissions, credit cards
welcome. Call 207/483-4075 or, toll
A bit further on, a left takes you to Burnham Tavern, Downeast Coastal Conservancy, and La Petite Boutique.
In 1775, the first Naval
battle of the American Revolution was fought
at Machias. It occurred when a small band of patriots captured
the Margaretta, a British man-o-war. Surviving from that time
on Main Street downtown is the BURNHAM TAVERN. Here the
patriots plotted the overthrow of King George.
Following the battle, the tavern was used as a hospital. It is the
oldest building in eastern Maine and the only one boasting ties to the
Revolution. Inside are period furnishings and historical artifacts.
Open late June-Labor Day, Monday-Friday. Admission charged.
On Main Street, look for Mobil,
Machias Bay Area Chamber of Commerce, Machias Savings Bank, The Office,
Bag 'O Rags, Bangor Savings Bank, Home Arts Museum, Woodwin Gallery,
Maine Magazine, Machias Hardware, Midtown Auto Repair, Main Street
Discount, Thirsty Moose Cafe, Bar Harbor Bank and Trust, Ming Garden
Resaurant, Barber Shop, Irving, Blue Bird Ranch Family Resaurant,
Walls, Living Innovations, Machias Bay Counseling, IT EBAY Store, Dr.
Peter Knowles Chiapractor, U.S. Cellular, Subway, Berrry Vines, Machias
Motor Inn, Helen's Restaurant, Machias Valley Farmers' Market, Sea
Kayaking Tours, Edge Drive-In, J.C. Penny, Riverview Video, Toy Box,
Timmy's Auto, RHR Smith and Company, The Inn, Goldsmith Variety,
Downeast Credit Union, Carquest, Machias Animal Hospital, Downeast
Community Hospital Medical Associates, Downeast Health Services, Child
Development Services, Gingham, Jordan Gardens, Machias Dental,
Riverside Takeout, Harbor Homes, Bonnie & Clyde's Used Furniture,
Dance Studio, Pineo's True Value Hardware, Bella Vita Salon, Margaretta
Motel, Gulf, Sandy's Sales, Hub Cap Country, and Malary Plumbing & Heating.
"Our main business is framing," says Holly
Garner-Jackson of WOODWIND GALLERY. "So if people want to come
in and just look around, they're certainly welcome." Visitors accepting
Holly's invitation can see the work of more than 50 artists and
artisans. There's space here for beginning and experimental art as well
as work by polished and well-known professionals. The day we visited,
prices ranged from $30 to $2,200, and, besides paintings, there were
carvings, woodcuts, some stained glass, and ships models. Holly also
sells art supplies, and lay-aways can be arranged. "Our paintings
aren't spaced 15 feet apart, and you don't have to worry about tracking
a little dirt on the rug," Holly says.
The folks at SUNRISE REALTY have been
around the greater
Machias area for a dog’s age and know the market like nobody else.
Think of them next time you’re looking to buy or sell property anywhere
in Washington County.
Natural Food stores north of Ellsworth are hard to find. Not so in
Machias. Stop by WHOLE LIFE NATURAL MARKET right off
where they sell organic produce, natural foods of all kinds , organic
wines, Bulk herbs and spices , natural pet products and much more.
They’ll even prepare you a box lunch to take on a picnic. Call ahead
first. Next door is Whole Body Wellness Studio. Relieve your tired body
with soothing and therapeutic massage therapy. They offer personal
sports training and other specific training as well as Yoga instruction.
MACHIAS BAY REALTY is in what once was the Machias 5 & 10
Store. Stop by and see Sharon. She knows her stuff. Once considered too
far away, Machias Bay is gaining in popularity. While waterfront
is still affordable here, one shoudn't assume this will hold true
Bryand describes herself as "a crazy lady who spends her money
giving away clothes." Well, she isn't crazy, really, but she is a
good-humored woman who all but gives away clothes at her BAG O'
RAGS Thrift Shop (207-255-4649) on Main St. The deals here are
delightful, as is Sandy's company.
SANDY'S SALES is a big wholesale and retail center
in East Machias. All kinds of bargains here. On Lower Main Street, Esther's
Shop stocks a variety of used clothes and accessories. At Smitty's
Post, you can get good deals on both new and used guns.
A left onto Route 192 will take you to Maine Sea Salt Company in Marshfield.
The MAINE SEA SALT COMPANY provides free
tours of its salt
works. Included are tastings of natural, flavored, and smoked salts.
The is the first salt works in Maine in over 200 years.
In 2014, HELEN'S RESTAURANT,
a local landmark for 65 years, was destroyed by fire. It took almost a
year to rebuild, but now it's better than ever. Although it's most
famous for its fruit pies,
the entire menu is outstanding. As much as possible, the owners utilize
local ingredients. The goat cheese is from Jonesboro, greens from farms
around Pembroke and Dennysville, and fresh blueberries from all over
In the center of
Machias, check out BAD LITTLE
likely to see harbor seals. The Machias River holds some of the
East's best salmon waters.
Leaving Machias, you'll pass a massage therapist, the road to the Gates
House, a dairy bar, Dogs by Dawn & Kitties 2, Riverside Inn &
Restaurant, Glad House Emporium, Wall Flower Inn, U.S. Post Office,
East Machias Fire Department, Public Library, Talbot House Inn,
Antiques, Gifts & More Shop, and Church Bazaar Marketplace.
of Machias is a pottery studio called CLAY OF FUNDY. Get
it? Not Bay of Fundy, but Clay of Fundy. An ornament from here was
chosen to adorn President Clinton's White House Christmas Tree.
Look for the turnoff onto Route 191 which leads to Cutler, Bold Coast Charter Company, U.S. Navy Communications Center, Cutler Coast Reserve, and Bold Coast Trails, The Inn at the Wharf.
FORT FOSTER (1776) on the east side of the Machias
River saw action during the Revolutionary War when settlers and Indians
fought side-by-side against the British. Admission: free.
MILL MEMORIAL PARK honors the logging industry.
All cultures sprout creators. Place and time are
for example, may boast of its prehistoric cave painters, but Maine had
scarcely less impressive petroglyph artists. These early inhabitants
made rock carvings of everyday tribal life that go back a couple of
thousand years, maybe much further. In East Machias, petroglyphs can be
found at three different sites, and the best way to view them is to
book passage on one of CAPTAIN MARTHA JORDAN'S BOAT TOURS out
of East Machias. Capt. Jordan knows more about these works than just
about anybody else. She worked on the collection of beautiful relief
prints permanently on display at Washington
Academy in East Machias.
She also knows a great deal about the area's history and is sensitive
to its flora and fauna. You'll need a reservation; call 207-259-3338.
East magazine called ROUTE 191, the
Cutler Road, "one of the most splendid coastal byways in Maine."
follows the shore of Machias Bay or 13 miles before looping back to
rejoin Route One in Lubec. On the road's outermost curve is Cutler
village—two churches, a fire station, and a small town office.
BOLD COAST CHARTER COMPANY offers
scenic cruises and puffin-watching triops
the western side of Little Machias Bay are the 26 towers of the U.S.
NAVY COMMUNICATIONS CENTER which maintains contact with naval
operations worldwide. This is said to be the world's most powerful
will be interested in the new CUTLER COAST
Situated south of Holmes Cove, hikers along the are rewarded
with spectacular views off 100-foot bedrock cliffs. The 2,174-acre
parcel, which contains 4.5 miles of isolated coastline, is maintained
by Maine's Bureau of Public Lands and eventually will include several
remote campsites. Once completed, it will be Maine's longest coastal
The BOLD COAST TRAILS
provide a pristine and at times solitary trek along rugged ocean cliffs
and through forests of spruce and fir. You'll walk for a
mile-and-a-half before getting to your first impressive ocean view.The
trail network is laid out like a figure-eight; the full loop covers
almost ten miles. It's not a real easy walk; it requires considerable
stamina. If you're up to it, the rewards are substantial. A little over
three-and-a-half miles follow the coast, soaring high above the water
in some places.
says THE INN AT THE
WHARF is New England's "Best Creative
According to Yankee, the spacious oceanfront suites and
apartments "don't reveal even a whiff of the building's former life as
a sardine factory." Each suite has
a private bath, king bed or two extra long single beds, and a sitting
area to enjoy ocean views and sunsets. The suites share a common area
with a kitchen, dining area, and a two-level deck leading to a large
wharf where fishing boats come in with their catches.
The Inn also offers bicycle and kayak rentals, whale watching, and, in
water taxi to Eastport. And as Yankee put it,
ohm in the yoga studio."
Route East 189 will take you down to Lubec, the country's easternmost town and once home to nearly two dozen sardine canneries. Look for Wildlife
Art Studio, Cobscook Community Learning Center, Phinney's Road House
& Lounge, Spruces Bar and Grill, South Bay Campground, Eastland
Motel, Downeast Adventures, Bold Coast Smokehouse, Due East Real
estate, Quoddy Head State Park, Uncle Kippy's Seafood Restaurant,
Murphy's Restaurant, Quoddy Dolphin, Bay View, Peacock House,
Annebelle's, chocolate shop, Made-in-Maine, Frank's Dockside
Restaurant, Skinning Shed Museum, Wags & Wool, Diane's Glass
Gallery, Atlantic House Deli & Pizza, and the gateway to Campobello.
Alan and Gretchen Mead have oopened COTTAGE GARDEN to the
public. Their primary mission, they say, is to educate people about
gardening by showing them their phenomenal perennials. Situated
four-and-a-half miles down the N. Lubec Road, the Meads also have a
herb garden, a stream-side damp garden, and an alpine collection. You
can get dried flower wreaths at the Herb Shop as well as unique
decorated garden benches, bird houses, and framed bird and botanical
prints. They're open 10 to 4 Wednesday through Sunday and other times by
chance or appointment. Admission is free
Lubec is QUODDY
HEAD STATE PARK, adjacent to West
Quoddy Head Light, Maine's famous
red-and-white striped lighthouse
The grounds are accessible from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. The state park
offers scenic grandeur, hiking trails, and picnic sites.
The Roosevelt International Bridge
Lubec and CAMPOBELLO ISLAND, where Franklin D. Roosevelt
summered as a young man. The
Roosevelt cottage, a museum, is open to the public from 9 a.m. to 5
p.m. until mid-Oct. Admission is free. The Roosevelt-Campobello
International Park, established in 1964, occupies 2,800 acres of
the island and includes hiking trails, picnic areas, and numerous
The grounds of EAST QUODDY HEAD LIGHT at Head Harbor at the
island's northern tip are accessible at low tide.
foot tides in the BAY OF FUNDY are among the
world's highest and produce a spectacular rush of water well worth
watching. This area might also be the world's foggiest.
Back on Route One, there is a boat
launch, Cobscook Bay State Park, Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge,
picnic area, Cobscook Bay Cafe, Robinson's Cottages, Pembrook Rainbow
Motel, Cappuccino Gallery and
Gardens, Johnson Mobil Mart, Morgan's Restaurant and Motel, Crossroads Restaurant, Cobscook Bay Cottages, and Ice Cream Place.
Even at the peak of the season, COBSCOOK BAY STATE
fills. You have a good chance of getting a campsite even without a
reservation. Numerous sites overlook the bay. Unlike many state parks,
Cobscook offers hot showers. Call 207-725-4412.
A right turn onto Route 190 takes you to Eastport. Look for the Waponahki Museum, and Mustard Mill Museum
The nation's easternmost city, EASTPORT has
seen some hard times since the collapse of its sardine-based economy,
but may be bouncing back. The downtown area, once noted for its
abandoned buildings, is coming alive with shops and galleries. Eastport
also has a busy working waterfront and seaport. Of late, salmon farming
has been among the enterprises providing the area an economic boost.
The annual Salmon Festival, held the first Sunday after Labor
Day, is a gala event.
Three miles outside of Eastport is the Pasamaquoddy
Point Reservation. The WAPONAHKI MUSEUM has a fine display of
Indian artifacts and books on the history of the Passamaquoddy people
and their language. You can buy Indian baskets here. Each august, there
is a celebration of Native American heritage.
The Raye family has been making mustard in Eastport
since the turn of
the century. It began by servicing the town's several sardine
canneries. Today, J.W. RAYE & CO. INC., having
survived the downfall of this industry,
still does things the old way,
grinding carefully selected mustard seeds and spices between huge
granite stones, then aging them in an ancient method that "marries" the
flavors and produces the distinctive aroma of fine mustard. You're
welcome to tour the MUSTARD MILL MUSEUM; when it is in
operation a yellow flag is flying. The Pantry Store features
Raye's products along with other natural foods products and crafts.
Gift baskets are made to order. Call 1-800-853-1903
OLD SOW off Eastport is the largest whirlpool
Western Hemisphere. (It may even be the world's largest; depends on
which Atlas you believe.) Caused by massive colliding tidal currents,
the spectacle can be observed from the shore near Dog Island at the
northern end of Water Street. It is at its best on windy days or when
tides are especially high. If you're brave and want to see the thing up
close, you can take the auto ferry to Deer Island. On some trips, the
ferry passes right through it.
During the War of 1812, the British seized
Eastport and held
her until 1818. They took command of FORT
SULLIVAN, the ruins of which
stand on Battery Hill. You can visit what's left of the old powder
house; nearby are barracks, which have been converted into a museum. A
phantom soldier from the occupation is said to still stand guard here.
Locals say he is often seen when the fog rolls in and the foghorn blows.
In Eastport, look for Eastport
Arts Center, Eastport Gallery, Kitty Butterfield's Nesting Gallery,
Port O'Call Gift Store, Eastport Aquarium, Marine Trades Center, Motel East, and Todd House B&B.
EASTPORT ARTS CENTER provides local artists,
craftspeople display space. During the summer, classes are held. Call
EASTPORT GALLERY, a collective of 28 artists living in and around
Eastport, has moved to new quarters at 69
Up the street, half-a-buck will get you into the EASTPORT AQUARIUM.
Upstairs is an interesting collection of books dealing
with the oceanic environment compiled by the Quoddy Foundation.
unique designation of being located in the easternmost city of the
United States, SHACKFORD HEAD STATE
PARK includes 90 acres of Moose Island and overlooks scenic
Cobscook Bay and includes Cony Beach. The park holds much history and
is named after Captain John Shackford, a Revolutionary War soldier.
During the early 1900’s, five Civil War ships were burned for salvage
at Cony Beach; still today, swimming is not recommended in this area of
the beach. There are many hiking trails that cross Shackford Head State
Park and anyone who ventures down these often challenging paths will be
treated to sightings of hermit thrushes, spotted sandpipers, bald
eagles, and a variety of other wildlife. There are 28 bird
species nesting on the headland of the park.
provides one of the region's most spectacular panoramas. From one of
its balconies, you can look across Passamaquoddy Bay to Campobello and
Grand Manan Islands. To the north lies St. Croix Bay and the coast of
New Brunswick. Call 207-853-4747.
The TODD HOUSE B&B
is a classic New England full cape built during the Revolutionary War.
Architectural features include a massive hearth and chimney and a unique
"good morning" staircase. Included on the National Register of Historic
Places, the inn features a spacious yard, with full cook-out
facilities, affording an ever-changing view of the bay and its islands.
The people here are pet friendly.
Back on Route One,
watch for the small, red, granite stone marking the halfway point
between the equator and the North Pole. It can be found at a roadside
park a mile-and-a-half from Route 190.
In this stretch, you'll find
Farm Union General Store, Wigwam
Moccasions, Information Center, New Friendly Restaurant, Downeast
Adventure Miniature Golf, Perry Bible Fellowship, 45 Parallel Gift
Shop, Strawberry Patch General Store, The Red Sleigh, Kendall FArm
Cottages, United Methodist Church, scenic turnoff, North Christian
Church, Katie's On The Cove, cottages, a
gallery, rest area, Edge Gallery, Redclyfe Motel, Robbinston Historical Society, St. Croix Island International Historic Site, Devil's Head
Conservation Area, Heslin's, Calais Antiques, picnic area, Taylor
Furniture & Appliances, Washington County Community Collage,
Riverside Cottages, and St. Croix Country Club.
Down East Magazine says THE RED SLEIGH
is the best shop of its kind in Maine. This unique shop features
products for your home from more than forty local artists, farmers,
artisans, and food producers. According to Down East, "its
quirky personality matches that of its owners, who started the business
to serve not only as a place of commerce, but also as a community
gathering spot that exhibits local art, holds events to met new people,
and showcases live music"
KATIE'S ON THE COVE in Robbinston
the old-fashioned way—by hand in small batches. The company, which
specializes in Maine potato candy, has some well-loved recipes dating
back more than a century. Katie's has been talked about positively in
"Down East Magazine," "The National Enquirer," "National Examiner,"
"Woman's World," the "Bangor Daily News" and was featured on Maine
Public Television’s "Made in Maine!" Her truffles and chocolates have
gotten rave reviews from several best-selling travel guides, including
"Yankee Magazine’s Travel Guide to New England 2000," "Off the Beaten
Path" by Wayne Curtis, "Moon Handbooks-Maine Handbook," by Kathleen M.
Brandes, and new in 2003, "An Explorer’s Guide to Maine," by Christina
Tree. Call 207-545-8446 or order online at www.katiesonthecove.com.
CROIX ISLAND INTERNATIONAL HISTORIC SITE celebrated its 400th anniversary
in 2004. St. Croix Island was settled
by the French nobleman Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Mons, in 1604. He brought
78 men with him, including Samuel Champlain, but the island proved an
inhospitable winter site, and several of the men died. In 1605, Dugua
moved his settlement to Port Royal in Nova Scotia. Today, there is no
public access to St. Croix Island, but it may be viewed from the shore
of Red Beach.
Heading towards downtown Calais, you'll see Brewer
House B&B, Calais Motor Inn, International Motel, Hightower Steak
House & Seafood, Karen's Main Street Diner, Calais Book Shop,
Points East Real Estate, Maineline Studio, Dusty Rose Antiques, Urban
Moose, Uptown Antiques, Chinese restaurant, Maine Visitor Information
Center, Bernardini's, Downeast Heritage Museum, Mainemade Gifts, and St. Croix Valley Antiques.
busiest border city, shares an
unusually close relationship with St.
Stephen, its Canadian neighbor.
Each helps to celebrate the other's holidays, each responds to the
other's police and fire emergencies, and St. Stephen provides Calais
drinking water. It's one of just two places in the world where potable
water is imported from a foreign country. An annual week-long festival
celebrates the spirit of friendliness here.
The stately BREWER HOUSE B&B was once the
stopover for the underground railroad, a safe haven for runaway slaves
heading for Canada.
The CALAIS MOTOR INN has
Washington County's only heated, indoor, Olympic-sized swimming pool.
Bernardini, owner of BERNARDINI'S, an Italian restaurant on
Main Street, was named 1999 Restaurateur of the Year by the Maine
Questions or comments? Send
them along to Captain D at email@example.com.